Cleansing

By now you would have heard about the new cleansing routine that is taking the Lash Extension Industry by storm – and shock!

It is pretty mind blowing stuff when you have been following the same aftercare procedures for years and repeating time and time again to your clients that they should not wet their lashes for 24 hours after the application. So how can we justify suddenly cleansing the extensions just 5 minutes after the application!?

As you are aware the Lash Industry has come a very long way in a relatively short space of time, as have the products that are constantly being developed and improved. With the advancement of lash adhesives in particular, we are able to change a lot of the guidelines we have previously followed in terms of curing times and aftercare advice. One in particular being the amount of time we need to wait before we can wet the extensions.

During the application the airborne vapours from the adhesive settle on the skin and eyelid area. Even though the adhesive may be cured at the end of the procedure these vapours are still present. The longer the vapours have to settle on the skin the more chance there is of sensitivities occurring. This is where the cleansing comes in!

Using a nanomister will speed up the curing process of the adhesive but it cannot prevent excess adhesive vapours from settling on the skin. It will also provide a soothing relief for the client, and rehydrate the eye area. It is also advised to always use an Anti allergy gel pot during the application to absorb excess airborne fumes and chemicals produced by the adhesive.

Here is everything you need to know – if we haven’t answered all of your questions please do not hesitate to get in touch!

Cleansing & Rinsing Techniques

As per the video demonstration this is a gentle rinse. Before the application we can swirl the cleansing brush in circular motions to really make sure we getting in between all the natural lashes. After the application the extensions are clean, but we simply want to gently rinse and expel any excess vapours that are hanging around.
A downward motion is good, and try not twist the extensions. This can hurt and leave the client with a bruised uncomfortable feeling along their lash line as the extensions will twist around each other and pull on the natural lashes from the base.

Option 1
As per the video demonstration you can wait 5 minutes after you have completed the application, sit the client up slightly so they are not lying flat, and then rinse their eyes with cleanser and water, pat dry and brush with a wand. It is important that the client is not lying completely flat when cleansing as the cleanser can run into their eyes and burn. Best is to prop them up at an angle.

Option 2
Wait 5 minutes and let the client cleanse and rinse their eyes at the basin with a lash cleanser and lash cleansing brush. Make sure they dab them dry gently with a tissue before they leave, and brush them out with a lash wand.

Adhesive Curing & Blooming

With the introduction of nebulisers and nanomisters, adhesives can be cured throughout the application, especially if clients are sensitive. It is important to ensure you are keeping the nanomister a minimum of 30cm from your clients face when curing, so the natural lashes do not get wet. You do not want to see beads of moisture on the lashes! Applying extensions to wet natural lashes will cause the adhesive to shock cure. The extensions can turn white as a result and the bond will not be as strong therefore affecting your retention.

Shock polmerization / curing can occur when moisture is too high and the outside of the cyanoacrylate adhesive cures before the inside. Ideally you want the moisture and humidity levels in your work space to be roughly 45% – 65% humidity.

Using too much adhesive can also lead to blooming. Blooming is a white residue on the extensions which shows that the adhesive has not bonded properly and the retention is guaranteed to be poor. Keeping your adhesive in the refrigerator can also lead to blooming as the moisture can disrupt the molecules and create polymerization inside the bottle. Always store your adhesive at room temperature, away from any heating element or sunlight and in an upright position.

Q & A’s

Question 1:
My client complains of sensitivity and eyes burning after their lash application. They wait 24 hours and when they do wet them they burn more. They are not allergic but the sensitivity lasts a few days after every application and their eyelids become slight swollen and pink. I do nanomist so why is this still an issue?

Answer:
The vapours emitted from the adhesive have settled on to the skin. When you shower or wet the eyes for the first time the vapours become loose.
Washing or rinsing the eyes directly after the application will get rid of any loose adhesive vapours that have settled in on the skin.
Some clients are more sensitive than others so not everyone will experience this problem, but it is a good idea to cleanse anyway.

Question 2:
The extensions are turning white if I rinse them directly after the application. What is causing this?

Answer:
Firstly you could be using too much adhesive. Remember 1 bead of adhesive per extension is plenty. If it is secured neatly to a CLEAN natural lash the adhesive bond will hold. Adhesive must always go onto a clean surface to allow for maximum retention. That means always cleansing thoroughly and then priming before every application as priming alone is not enough. The cleanser will remove any excess dirt, debris and make-up that settles onto the lashes on a daily basis which primer cannot do. The primer will dehydrate the natural lash and remove excess oils to allow for maximum adhesion.
Remember less is more when it comes to adhesives!

Question 3:
Is it worth trying this cleansing technique on clients that have previously not been able to have lashes?

Answer:
If it is mild sensitivities they have experienced in the past (and not a full blown allergic reaction), then yes. It is a good idea to get them to sign a consent form and explain the potential outcomes. There is a good chance though that without any vapours settling on their skin or eye area for an extended period of time, that they will be free from any sensitivities.
By adding this cleansing step to your routine you may be able to retain a lot more clients that would have previously forgone lashes due to their sensitivities.

Happy, healthy lashes!

Our main goal is always to keep our clients lashes healthy and happy, and cleansing will always play a huge role in this. By looking after the natural lashes and ridding the eyes of any sensitivities or build ups, your clients will continue to wear lash extensions with out hassle or the feeling of wanting to have a break. For more useful information to help you stay ahead of the game, follow our favourite Lash Guru Hilaree on @mybrandlashes

Testimonials

There is no evidence that cyanoacrylate adhesion is going to be affected by moisture. Once it is hardened, you get a tight seal that is resistant to moisture. In fact, water slowly completes the cure. Think of nanomisters. The fine mist works to accelerate the cure of any unreactive monomer. If using a nanomister after the product has set and hardened isn’t going to cause lashes to lift, why should washing?

When you include cleansing as your last service step, you will be ridding the lashes and skin of any potential irritants and allergens left from the product residual.

How do allergies come about in the first place? Allergic reactions are caused by prolonged and repeated contact. Substances that stay on the skin for hours or a day can be enough to cause irritation that over time can develop into a permanent allergic reaction. By washing away these traces of ingredients your body doesn’t get a chance to be irritated. Prolonged irritation is what can lead to an allergy.
If your client has already developed an allergy (not sensitivity) unfortunately nothing can be done to reverse it. Washing lashes won’t lessen present allergies, rather it’s a step toward prevention.

Doug SchoonPresident of Schoon Scientific in Dana Point, CaliforniaSchoon Scientific

If you enjoy a long career in lashing, you will undoubtedly come across clients who develop sensitivities, it is just part of the job. I am optimistic that adding in this last cleansing step will leasen the incidences and hopefully it can and will keep clients in our chairs for lashes and fills instead of lash removals due to sensitivities.

Maryann MatykowskiGlad Lash Training and Education CoordinatorGlad Lash

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